Boda-boda

Most Ugandans travel by foot or by bicycle. The latter is an incredibly useful tool as it is used to carry large loads of "stuff"; bananas, banana leaves, water, coal, etc. In more affluent areas they use boda-bodas, or motorcycles. And, of course, the wealthy and the mzungu travel in cars.

In the city we got along using special-hire taxis, which means some dude who owns a car takes you places at a pre-agreed upon price. They can also be hired by the hour or by day. But they are expensive. Because we are mzungu they always ask for 10,000 Ugs--about $6.00). We always had to bargain down the price. One time we took a metered taxi and that was even more expensive.

We have been living it up traveling by (Toyota) Land Cruiser, a largish 4x4 SUV. Both safaris have been on the same type of car, even though we used different companies. It's a fairly large and comfortable car, though we've spent so much time traveling we don't relish the idea of more travel. Most cars and motorcycles are imported used from Japan. The car we are in now still has a sticker of the Japanese Automobile Federation! A motorcycle is about 1,000,000 Ugs (or $600). Cars are more.

Some roads are sealed but a large number are dirt roads. And because of traffic and the rain they are not in very good condition. So we go bumping around in the back of the Land Cruiser. Still, it is a luxury compared to how most people travel. We feel bad for the people walking along the side of the road, as they get engulfed in the dust plume of the car.

Most Ugandans are careful and cautious drivers. Though, of course, there are exceptions. A couple of times our drivers have had to swerve of the road as an oncoming car or bus is in our lane. But mostly people drive slowly and carefully. Though the roads are quite chaotic, especially near a big town as people stop wherever they want.

In and around cities private minibuses (peseros) are everywhere. Basically they are mini-vans with 4 or 5 rows of seats packed to the brim. They have one driver and one guy who charges the fares and calls out the destination (seated by the large sliding door). Most of the reckless drivers we've seen are minibuses, so we've stayed away.

This is all what one expects from a poor developing country. My biggest surprise is how versatile the bicycle is. Seems like gearing would make life easier but reduce the lifespan of the bike and so most people go without. It has made me wonder whether it is possible to build an even more efficient and practical vehicle. And I've had a lot of hours to ponder the problem!

R

Debby adds:

On the way back from Murchinson Falls we saw a UN convoy taking Sudanese refugees back to Sudan. It is a little different here.